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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing a MBC looks sounds and is very easy, but for noobs like I was b4 I tried putting it on.. this can be a little confusing.

Things to have handy
1. Extra Vac line, 1/4" from Advanced Auto for less than a dollar a foot is fine
2. Zip ties.. small black will look best
3. Some type of snips

Ok lets get started.. make your life easier and take the intake off and you MIGHT want to wait till your car cools because the turbo will melt your face off :D

1. Figure out which line you would like to tap into. You could use the green line or your blue line. IT REALLY DOESNT MATTER. GREEN is supposed to be for torque and BLUE for horsepower, but the end result is your car is really fast ;).

2. You could try and cut into the lines as close as the WGA as you can to save from using 20 feet of vac hose. A simple cut and placement of a vac "T" will do fine. HOWEVER, you may get rid of that blue or green line altogether, cap it off at the boost solenoid and run the straight line to the MBC. Its all the same don't let it confuse you.

3. After you place that "T" in the line, run some of your vac hose to the MBC. Since that is your turbo source run it to the SIDE of the boost controller. Take some more vac hose and run it to your WGA from the BOTTOM of the BC. Zip tie all your loose ends and your done.

Tuning
When tuning your setup you will want to set the amount of boost for your supporting mods such as S1,2,3 or fuel management.
1. If you are a stock 03 I would not up your boost anymore than stock
2. If you are a stock 04 you might be able to get away with an extra psi or so
3. Just get stage 1 so you can SAFELY up the boost to about 17-18 spike and holding about 15-16. Its all preference. HOWEVER with S1 anything over 18lbs will pull your timing and you are working against yourself!

*HINT* If you have an aftermarket WGA I.E. AGP billet style. Make sure you install that on your car AND TUNE IT before you add your MBC. If you plan on tuning both at the same time you are going to go crazy..I did that and quickly removed the BC and just tuned the wga.

To tune the WGA you must loosen the nut on the left and turn the corresponding nut on the right either UP towards your car for raising the boost or DOWN towards your engine for LOWER boost.
To tune the MBC all you have to do is raise or lower the boost with the allen key provided. If it is a regular MBC then it will only have 1 mechanism. If it is a HPBC it will have 2. The bottom one is for drastically changing your boost and the side one is for a more precise boost setting. Both will raise and lower boost just one more so than the other.

Always carry that allen key on you because you might notice your boost is to low or high where ever you are. I'll try to update with some good pics when I find them
 

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Disclaimer - if you blow your car, turbo, engine, and/or self up it is not the fault of DredSRT4 or anyone else, just your own b/c ignorance ownz and you should kinda know what you're doing before tinkering.

PS - real nice how-to btw, pics would make it even better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
gpSRT said:
Disclaimer - if you blow your car, turbo, engine, and/or self up it is not the fault of DredSRT4 or anyone else, just your own b/c ignorance ownz and you should kinda know what you're doing before tinkering.

PS - real nice how-to btw, pics would make it even better!
LOL! thanks GP, i know i couldnt find any good ones.. there were some off the srtforums but it was for a dual stage.. didnt really correspond.if anyone finds any good ones they can post em up and ill get kenny to make everything look neat
 

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DrEdSrT4 said:
LOL! thanks GP, i know i couldnt find any good ones.. there were some off the srtforums but it was for a dual stage.. didnt really correspond.if anyone finds any good ones they can post em up and ill get kenny to make everything look neat
thats what im here for, haha
 

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I just got a MBC and need some help figuring this out
I need some clarification
The green line gets the T?
From the WGA the black line goes from WGA to BC, the existing line gets capped?
Whats on the other end of that black line from the WGA, where does it lead to?
How should it be capped and do i need to cut it so its not hanging around in there
 

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MetsSFTF said:
I just got a MBC and need some help figuring this out
I need some clarification
The green line gets the T?
From the WGA the black line goes from WGA to BC, the existing line gets capped?
Whats on the other end of that black line from the WGA, where does it lead to?
How should it be capped and do i need to cut it so its not hanging around in there
the black line leads to one of the 3 solenoids(the boost control solenoid to be exact)
nice write up dan!;)
i think pics would be great,if you dont mind if i add some info i think it might be helpful for everyone who wants to do one.
first i think its pretty important before putting a wga and mbc that the installer should have a complete understanding of what exactly it does.ill keep it simple so its easier to understand.if anyone wants to get more in depth i would be happy to help
what exactly your wga does:
the wga controls the actual wastegate that is inside the exhaust manifold.when a certain amount of air pressure is sent to the wga it begins to open.as it opens it begins to push open a valve in the manifold that will allow boost to move around the turbo and route directly to the exhaust and out of the car.the amount of boost that you achieve is dependant on how tight or loose the wga is.
when the wga is tight is takes more pressure for the wastegate to open which results in more boost.this is why if the vac line going to the wga is removed you will not divert any air pressure into the exhaust resulting in an overboost condition that is very harmful to the turbo and your motor.
when the wga is too loose it takes very little pressure to open the wastegate and majority of boost is diverted around the turbo resulting in low boost.
whenever you run a mbc and a wga it is absolutely most important that you tune your wga BEFORE you install the mbc.to do so just do the following;
remove the black line from the wga and cap it off.next you will want to cut a vac line (either blue or green) and and install a tee.from that tee you will run a vac line directly to the new wga.take the car for a ride and do a pull in third gear and see what your boost is.if it is too high you will want to make the wga arm longer.if it is too low ,you will want to make it shorter.
extending wga arm = less boost
shortening wga arm = more boost
when i do wga's i like to set my base boost to 12-13 psi.once i have achieved that base boost i now install my mbc.now it should look like this
1=tee in blue or green line and old black line capped off
2=vac line going from tee to the "in" side of the mbc.
3=now run a vac line from the "out" of the mbc directly to the wga.
now to double check your work you can close your mbcall the way and take it for a ride.if you have that initial 12-13 psi then you know you have a functioning mbc.you can now begin raising the boost by slowly opening the mbc until you reach your desired boost.
now let me explain how the mbc works;
we already accomplished what an wastegate does so lets touch on how an mbc comes into play.like i said before the when the wastegate opens it diverts air pressure around the turbo.an mbc will bleed off pressure before it gets to the wga resulting in more boost.
heres an example





i drew a pics on paint to try to explain it better,hope that helps:D
 

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MetsSFTF said:
Thanks for the info and lesson in WGA and MBCs Jay
Just 1 last questions
I plan on getting a new WGA soon, would it be better to hold off on installing the MBC and wait until the WGA is on and properly tuned?
absolutely wait until you put the wga on.besides putting an mbc on a stock wga is pretty much senseless since it has a 4 pound spring and is basically a paperweight
 

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StreetRaceGN said:
With the stock WGA looped tuner style how much boost will you get? Kinda off topic, just curious.
not quite sure what you mean by looped tuner style but if i can answer your question i would be more than happy to
 

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never2muchboost said:
absolutely wait until you put the wga on.besides putting an mbc on a stock wga is pretty much senseless since it has a 4 pound spring and is basically a paperweight
Thank you very much Jay
After the holidays I will be getting the WGA, know a good place I can get it and have it installed ?:D
 

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MetsSFTF said:
Thank you very much Jay
After the holidays I will be getting the WGA, know a good place I can get it and have it installed ?:D
ill let you know if i find a place,let me check my sig:D
 

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never2muchboost said:
not quite sure what you mean by looped tuner style but if i can answer your question i would be more than happy to
If you just run the line from the compressor housing fitting to the WGA nipple, often referred to as "tuner style". I basically am curious as to how many lbs the WGA spring is. Since I kinda hijacked the thread anyway, what size is the "puck" for boost control, I have a couple of oversize ones in Inconel that I'm trying to figure out what to do with.
 

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StreetRaceGN said:
If you just run the line from the compressor housing fitting to the WGA nipple, often referred to as "tuner style". I basically am curious as to how many lbs the WGA spring is. Since I kinda hijacked the thread anyway, what size is the "puck" for boost control, I have a couple of oversize ones in Inconel that I'm trying to figure out what to do with.
got pics? as far as doing it tuner style that is how i was explaining it.when you initially set your wga you arfe doing it that way.
so you are saying you are using an inconel coated boost controller?
 

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We call 'em pucks in the TR world, I keep forgetting they're referred to as flapper valves. I used a grainger valve with my old internal gate, but with the new external gate setup I run now it's not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
way to out do me with the only thing i try to be good at JAY?!..

mets, dont put the wga and mbc on at the same time, it will be impossible to tune.. IT WAS FOR ME ANYWAYS.. do WGA only 1st, then once you are holding the boost you want, put the mbc on
 

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DrEdSrT4 said:
way to out do me with the only thing i try to be good at JAY?!..
mets, dont put the wga and mbc on at the same time, it will be impossible to tune.. IT WAS FOR ME ANYWAYS.. do WGA only 1st, then once you are holding the boost you want, put the mbc on
i think you did a good write up,i just thoght that info would only add to it holmes.if you want resize those pics and cut and paste the other info into your first post that would be even better
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
never2muchboost said:
i think you did a good write up,i just thoght that info would only add to it holmes.if you want resize those pics and cut and paste the other info into your first post that would be even better
lol i was JP..i could careless. Id rather people listen to you than me, this way their car is running good instead of them yelling at me when they blew their turbo :lol:
 

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install mbc

I went ahead and tuned the wga and was holding 15psi solid to redline.
Then added the mbc, at this point the needle was buried on stock gauge and trembling on the stop needle at bottom. So I went back and detuned the wga, and the mbc set to close, now I am 20psi. to redline and seems like it may be at max or not getting enough fuel for rpm (too lean?) it cuts out and blows off. But the mbc is merely installed but the valve is closed. Not sure what to do to stop this cut-out. I think maybe tune wga to nothing all the way. And then turn up the controler, still not sure. However I followed the above picture diagram and with the mbc closed it is running 20psi to redline. :yay:
pm. if there is something missing from diagram.
 
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