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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well besides the shitty driving...

05 SRT-4 Stage 1,agp wga,aem short ram,agp bov conv,plugs gapped at 40.

14.3 @ 97 w/a 2.4 60'

Went to the track,my brother was running high 14's(his very first time running at a track ever),so I didn't think much of it
He got a headache and I took it for a run. And ran the above time. Which was better by half a second than any time he had run that night. Well I will get to the point,why are the traps so low? Cool night,low altitude,car itself was cool. WGA is going strait to the housing with a bleed,spiking 17 holding 15. I would assume with this setup the traps would be over 100,in the past he would be right on the bumper of my car and it runs vvv. So whats going on?
 

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What were your shift points? Do you have a scan tool to log the runs? I drove a friend's SRT to [email protected] and it was mostly stock with a few bolt-ons. I was powershifting about 400 RPMs before redline. He had an adjustable FPR, was a little rich so I adjusted FP to get the o2s down to where I thought the car was running right. Before I made the adjustments and made a pass in the car he only trapped 98 MPH.
 

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Its a power problem, no question about that. PCM is pulling the timing for some reason. Either the boost is going over 18 PSI and the PCM is pulling your timing or your getting detonation that is also pulling the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm wondering if its that safeway gas my brother buys. I guess I will make some pulls to see what its boosting,maybe it changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
StreetRaceGN said:
What were your shift points? Do you have a scan tool to log the runs? I drove a friend's SRT to [email protected] and it was mostly stock with a few bolt-ons. I was powershifting about 400 RPMs before redline. He had an adjustable FPR, was a little rich so I adjusted FP to get the o2s down to where I thought the car was running right. Before I made the adjustments and made a pass in the car he only trapped 98 MPH.
I was shifting at about 5900,a hair before redline. It just feels like a dog once it gets into third,it didn't use to feel that way. I don't power shift it,but I kinda half power shift I let off the gas but not all the way,it keeps boost when i shift. Also we reset the ecu before we left for the track,not sure if that had an effect or not. I didn't want him to but he was determined to do it.
 

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Best thing to do is log the run with a scantool, and watch your o2s and knock retard. Make sure your bro didn't put 87 octane in the car...Try mixing a little 100 octane u/l in at the track(3-4 gallons), if it helps you're fighting detonation.
 

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1. get rid of the bleed. you should be smacked in the head for having it on there.
2. that 60' is horrible, that's a problem right there.
3. leak test
4. re-torque knock sensor
5. reset ecu
6. go back to track
 

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Gotwhat there are 2 possible problems.. 1 he has a boost leak, which is very possible and 2 you have finally come to realize HOW HARD it is to actually drive that car lol. Dont feel bad, i have the same mods as ur bro has exactly and ran my best time of [email protected] and 99 with a 2.6 60' lol i only got 2 passes cuz Etown was being gay but.. in all reality i should have been trapping 101 102, BUT i notice that your bother does not have motor mounts does he? Wheel hop from what ive gathered SLOWS down trap speeds.. Tire spin gives you higher trap speeds.. i had no mounts and shit tires.. i was wheel hopping like crazy and getting low traps.. i dont have a boost leak, im spikin 18 holding 15. Welcome to the wonderful world of driving a FWD car with a lot of power.

Your 60's speak for themselves 2.4.. drop it to 2.2's and you'll see 13.9s 13.8s @ about 101 102
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
psi chick said:
1. get rid of the bleed. you should be smacked in the head for having it on there.
2. that 60' is horrible, that's a problem right there.
3. leak test
4. re-torque knock sensor
5. reset ecu
6. go back to track
Do i just take the bleed off,or get a boost controler?
 

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GotWhat? said:
Do i just take the bleed off,or get a boost controler?
dude get a boost controller for 30-60 bucks used or new dont matter depending on the type it is. Set the car to spike 17 or 18 and hold 15 thats what mine is and it runs great
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
DrEdSrT4 said:
Gotwhat there are 2 possible problems.. 1 he has a boost leak, which is very possible and 2 you have finally come to realize HOW HARD it is to actually drive that car lol. Dont feel bad, i have the same mods as ur bro has exactly and ran my best time of [email protected] and 99 with a 2.6 60' lol i only got 2 passes cuz Etown was being gay but.. in all reality i should have been trapping 101 102, BUT i notice that your bother does not have motor mounts does he? Wheel hop from what ive gathered SLOWS down trap speeds.. Tire spin gives you higher trap speeds.. i had no mounts and shit tires.. i was wheel hopping like crazy and getting low traps.. i dont have a boost leak, im spikin 18 holding 15. Welcome to the wonderful world of driving a FWD car with a lot of power.

Your 60's speak for themselves 2.4.. drop it to 2.2's and you'll see 13.9s 13.8s @ about 101 102
As far as the 60's go,I it was my one and only run,so i wasn't expecting to cut anything all that great. It just seems odd because there was a girl there in a bone stock one and she cut a 14.0 at 100,and we cut a 97 mph with 5 psi more. When I first installed the parts the car pulled like crazy,doesn't seem the same anymore. It feels modded though 1st and second,and then it feels stock through 3rd and 4th. I think it is pulling timing. I would have been happy with anything over 100,but 95-97 is just weak. And yes it is hard to launch fwd,especialy when you just got out of a rwd on dr's that you just pop the clutch and go :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
DrEdSrT4 said:
dude get a boost controller for 30-60 bucks used or new dont matter depending on the type it is. Set the car to spike 17 or 18 and hold 15 thats what mine is and it runs great
Thats what it does with the bleed.
 

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GotWhat? said:
Thats what it does with the bleed.
its ghetto.. ghetto mods = teh ghey

Idk just lower those 60's and the car will be runnin good times.. get radials if you got the money, fix that problem real quick, as long as you got mounts 2

EDIT: well if you can notice the difference in the car then id say boost leak. You shouldnt be pulling timing with only 17 psi.. you have Stage 1 right? Start checking every hose and tie it down.. check your IC piping too my clamps always blow off. How is the WGA holding up? When i 1st put my WGA and BC on i noticed my car felt slow as balls in 3rd gear and 4th gear.. i didnt know why. It was boosting right.. but when i took the MBC off the WGA was only holding like 8 psi. Can also check that
 

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read this: Leak Tester. it will explain how to build a leak tester and use it.

a bleed does not really do the same thing as it's extremly difficult to control boost with a bleed. not to mention that you have a dinky piece of platic sitting next to a really hot turbo....that's just asking for a problem. don't be cheap. buy a mbc (they're like $20, you can even build one at home depot for less) and at least have the piece of mind that the car will run properly and you don't have to worry about massive spikes because you can't control what's going on under the hood.

that 60' is killing your times, so that would be a very good place to work on. i'm betting that there's a leak somewhere in the car, so leak test it and tighten up those clamps. also try resetting the ecu. if the car is spiking too high then the ecu is going to retard timing to preserve itself (the ecu's #1 job - protect the motor). by using the bleed the boost is not really under control, so it's very possible that the ecu is yanking timing because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok I just went for a run. In second gear it was spiking 15 and dropping to 13. In third it was spiking to 16 and dropping to 14. So I'm thinking maybe reving it to redline is what hurt the traps. And the fact that its not boosting as high is why it didn't feel as fast. So its definatly not pulling timing at those levels. So the next problem is where its loosing boost. I'm gonna tighten all the clamps and see if that doesn't bring it back up. Then if that doesn't help I"m going to re adjust the WGA. I will try and talk him into a boost controller.

Also at low rpm at WOT it is sputtering and cutting out,even after I regaped the plugs. The plugs now have 7.5k on them so I'm going to put some new ones in there and see if that cures it.

Does that sound about right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
psi chick said:
read this: Leak Tester. it will explain how to build a leak tester and use it.

a bleed does not really do the same thing as it's extremly difficult to control boost with a bleed. not to mention that you have a dinky piece of platic sitting next to a really hot turbo....that's just asking for a problem. don't be cheap. buy a mbc (they're like $20, you can even build one at home depot for less) and at least have the piece of mind that the car will run properly and you don't have to worry about massive spikes because you can't control what's going on under the hood.

that 60' is killing your times, so that would be a very good place to work on. i'm betting that there's a leak somewhere in the car, so leak test it and tighten up those clamps. also try resetting the ecu. if the car is spiking too high then the ecu is going to retard timing to preserve itself (the ecu's #1 job - protect the motor). by using the bleed the boost is not really under control, so it's very possible that the ecu is yanking timing because of it.
If I can't knock out the leaks by tightening the clamps I will make one of those leak testers.
 

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you will have no idea if you got rid of the leaks by just tightening the clamps. the only way to tell is to actually leak test the car. just becuase you got rid of one major leak and the car feels a little better doesn't mean that there aren't 3 other smaller leaks that are still there......
 

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psi chick said:
1. get rid of the bleed. you should be smacked in the head for having it on there.
2. that 60' is horrible, that's a problem right there.
3. leak test
4. re-torque knock sensor
5. reset ecu
6. go back to track
:werd:

#2 & #3 fo' sho'
 
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